Washington DC and onward....

Hi again from the air, or at least an airport lounge to start with.
We are moving again, this time from Washington DC to Toronto. It's often said that Canadians are more like Australians, and having been there a couple of times it always feels relaxed, with a relatively small population.

Washington had a capital city atmosphere, I can see how it's a monument to the democratic world and it wasn't lost on me as our host Hope Pjesky led a small, but hardy band of us around the highlights starting at the crack of dawn on Sunday. Breakfast would have been a smart move prior, as there was nothing available until mid morning.
The monuments were good to visit, all those things we see in movies there in front of you. The Lincoln and the Vietnam memorials were both very moving, and I was thankful we made the effort to be early, as the crowds were building fast, and both the temperature and humidity rising. Apparently it is something to see many of them at night as they are all beautifully lit - next time....

The plan of an early night in order to be fresh for two full days of briefings went a little awry due to an unexpected invitation to a gala dinner for 1500 people to celebrate the Washington restaurant awards. MLA have one of four stands, showcasing and serving fine Australian food, wine and beer. Boags Premium always tastes good, but in that setting I felt a little pride that our local brew was front and centre. Pity we didn't supply barley to them last season, but I'm impressed to see the marketing and promotion is still very strong for a relatively small brewery.
And the lamb chops were to die for, even Richard the kiwi approved!

Flying north to Toronto, city lights have been a constant below us, I only wish it was daytime to get a feel of the landscape as I did from California. A very bright half moon is centre of the small window, funny how I haven't missed it's presence over the last few weeks, but seeing it so clearly again.....

Had a very interesting briefing regarding the American Farm Bureau, the highly influential farm lobby group. They have 6.25 million members, paying an annual subscription of $50-60.
Every year they develop a complete policy framework, voted on at a county, then state and finally, national level. The structure gives members input and ownership of the policies and is greatly respected among politicians.

Well, that was a short flight, and on a very small plane considering it is international travel!

Now in Guelph, Ontario, the weather is a bit cooler, and the Canadian Nuffield hosts have been kind, as the meetings today were informal and not too long.
Land prices have gone up massively over the last few years, a succession of good seasons and high prices has meant producers are in a good position to expand if the land is available. $12,000 per acre, (yes, acre!) is common in Ontario.
There is still a fairly high degree of protection for Ag producers, and interest rates start at around 3.5% for 3 years.( including margin )

California

Flying from California to Washington DC. A vast landscape stretches below, desert with what appears to be salt lakes and dust whipping up. Earlier some high peaks with remnants of winter snows till clinging to the shady aspects.

The flight will take over 4 hrs, time to catch up on some thoughts. Did the last China blog last night, as I said, I'm still coming to terms with what I saw. Sometimes when you see something for the first time it makes a deep impression on you and on a subsequent visit the sensation is very different. Is that what happened?

Anyway, we have had a whirlwind overview of Californian Ag production. The state is something like the seventh largest economy in the world, and Ag contributes around 36 billion.
(By the way, I look out the window again the view had briefly changed to some large green circles in a broad valley system, before crossing some long ridge lines and canyon walls. I wish I had a map to follow the route...)
We started with a quick afternoon trip into San Francisco, the majority of the group elected to sleep off some jet lag and do some laundry. This may have been a good move, we were to be in a different hotel every night, thus washing has been impossible. (My mind wanders back to the luxury hotel in Kaifeng, laundry was returned to the room pressed, in sealed plastic bags.)
Oh well, the clam chowder on fisherman's wharf is one of THE things to do in San Fran apparently, and I could not dispute that! Stopping to watch some street performers doing their thing in order to pay for their classes at the circus school, and the washing and sleep began to feel far less important.
Dinner and briefings in the evening at Glenda Humistone's house, supplied with good food, beer and a glass of red would normally have had me asleep, however the stimulating conversation allowed me to win the battle this time. It was not always to be the case.....

Another range with the defiant snow patches, and my view becomes obscured by a large fire, the hight of the smoke at a similar altitude to the 737 from which I peer.

Early the next morning, it must have been a Sunday from memory, an altogether unreliable source by now, and we were away early to a farmers market. It was in the car park of the council chambers, or the equivalent of, and had a very impressive range of produce, a great spot for breakfast!
It's certainly used as an advertising and PR platform for the more entrepreneurial stall holders, as many chefs visit to find specialty products.
From then on, it is all a bit of a blur, thank goodness for the iPad, the notes I have will bring back the essence of most meetings and visits. It is an excellent tool, and I haven't felt the need for a laptop at all ....yet..... I like to back up to the cloud on a regular basis though.

I think we had 25 meetings or visits over the six or so days, so the pace has been hectic, the battle with sleep, a constant. Some very interesting meetings and discussions had me actually seeing double, the slides on the projection screens changing color in front of me!
It was amazing to see so much in such a short time, from irrigation testing facilities, wineries, organic wholesalers, urban agriculture, nuts and fruit, education facilities, including an afternoon at UC Berkley, to urban renewal projects in areas where unemployment is running over 20%.

We were hosted one night on farms, it was an absolute pleasure to be in a house and bedroom, not a hotel. A barbecue dinner with all the hosts, most of whom are graduates of the Ag leadership programme, allowed for engagement and discussion at a high level.
My host manages 6 farms, mainly almonds and stone fruit, the candy apricots were appreciated by all over the next couple of days!

However, it as hard to feel a connection to California, I guess the time was too short, and the time difference from Beijing took more out of me than I gave credit, especially when I was waking at 3:30 am on many nights early in the week. I think another visit will be essential.....

A really big thanks to everyone who helped make this leg of our journey such a success, Glenda packed as much as she could into the programme, and it was well worth it.

Beijing

The final stop on the journey through China, Beijing.
We managed to pack a fair bit in during the last few days, a trip out of the city to visit the extended family of our interpreter and guide, Emma was a highlight. A typical rural scene, wheat ready to harvest, some cotton about 150 mm high, corn and various other crops at different growth stages. The soils were good and irrigation from ground water gave a productive feel.
Looking across the landscape, I could imagine a modern agricultural system stretching into the distance, large tracts of flat land, pivot irrigators and associated efficiencies.
I can't help but consider, however, the cost to the local community such a change would precipitate.
This must be just one of the dilemmas the Chinese leaders must face constantly. Growth has to be managed very carefully in the context of a huge population, as rapid urbanization could be disastrous.

I was not without emotion as I stepped onto Tianamin Square, this symbol of democratic struggle and oppression. Moving around, it's hard not to notice the cameras on the rooftops and light poles, and feel the survelance as we sat on the warm pavement contemplating the events of the past....

After only 10 days in China, I have a far greater appreciation of the culture and the people that make up this vast and historic country. A week later and I'm still trying to come to terms with the contradictions and moral questions thrown up, despite pushing my own values and judgements aside.

Finally, I must relate one amazing story. After dinner on the last night in Beijing, a small number of us decided to finish the evening sitting outside at a bar with soft jazzy music playing and a bottle of red wine. On leaving, we hailed a taxi, piled in, only to find the taxi had no meter, the fair an arbitrary negotiation not worth entering into late at night. Out we scramble amid some unhappy sounding dialogue from the dismissed driver.
Another taxi was hailed and we repeated the maneuver, and settled in for the drive back to the hotel. As we neared our destination, I felt for my phone, left hand pocket as always -no? Then where is it!
The sinking feeling was quickly replaced with the calm of recognition that my phone was gone, period.
Emma was sure I must have left it at the bar, and dialed my number. Engaged.
Finally an answer!
A lady had found it in the back of the first taxi, and was trying to ring numbers in the recent list.
Our taxi turned around and a location for the recovery arranged, all the while I could not believe I could be that lucky!
My faith in humanity is restored!

In all, I would go back in an instant. However travel would be extremely difficult, an interpreter essential, as the language barrier is almost impenetrable.
A huge thanks to Emma for putting the majority of the programme together, her interpreting skills as well as her willingness to enter dairies, piggeries, and traipse across fields in the hot sun in order to help us learn about Chinese agriculture.
Thanks to everyone involved.....

Inner Mongolia

Apparently the Chinese military control some of the flight paths into Hohhot airport, and one of these routes happened to be ours.
Having had the opportunity to get to know Zeng Zhou airport well, we were finally called for the hour and a bit flight north.
I was looking forward to Inner Mongolia, the knowledge I would be getting a glimpse of a more mountainous area was exciting, and I longed for the chance to indulge my passion.
The approach to land the plane was well worth waiting for in itself, and stepping from the plane, into a clear, less humid and slightly cooler atmosphere was welcome. Checking the iPhone confirmed the altitude at just under 1100 meters.
A full programme of meetings and visits had been arranged, potato breeding facilities, sheep genetics, a detour to see some potatoes emerging under a pivot, pigs, dairies and a milk processing plant. It was absolutely state of the art, all robotic and automated, including the warehousing of the palletized end product. Gleaming stainless steel, the ability to process around 2000 tonnes per day, even a manicured lawn, the first I had seen at an industrial site, clashed as we drove out past road maintenance crews using shovels to fill potholes........

The scenery was stunning, the stark beauty of the ranges around, and probably closer than 50 km away in most directions, giving subtle hints as to the minus 20 degree winds and ice of winter.
Little snow accumulates, the rainfall is only 200 mm or so per anum, and if it were not for the ground water, there would be little to support the population.
The city has a modern feel, cleaner than most visited up till now, all the well known fashion and lifestyle brands being present.
Again, much of the new infrastructure had a somewhat rushed feel, as seen along much of our path through this rapidly growing country. I wonder how some of these roads and buildings will look in 10 tears time......

China summary

Just arrived in California, so I can now access blogger and all things google again.
Had a fantastic time in China, it is a fascinating culture and there seemed to be a surprise around every corner.
We started in Hong Kong, then via an Austral built ferry to mainland China. Gaungzhou is a vegetable, rice and fruit growing area, and the range of produce is huge. Every kind of fruit was available, the lychees were a highlight. Ever time we turned around we ended up with more of them on the bus!
We visited a fruit and veg market, stated to be the largest in SE Asia, it runs 24/7 and in the height of the water Mellon season, 5000 tonnes of the fruit passed through every day. The produce is sourced from all over China, from in excess of 1000 suppliers.

Hong Kong

Flew from Manila to Hong Kong, the contrast between the two airports was huge.
Hong Kong airport is a huge structure, the flow of people was smooth and efficient, enhancing the sense of space.
After a bus ride to the hotel, a quick turnaround was needed to get to Rabo Bank in time for our meeting!
The message delivered was, in many ways, what we hear at home. However it's amazing what a difference context makes, sitting in an office in Hong Kong, talking about the growth and changing spending patterns of an increasing middle class.
The food security message has been a constant all week, and its very convincing when you are surrounded by such a mass of humanity.
The risk of ignoring it is too great.....

Hong Kong is an incredible place, we got such a quick glimpse.
I'm sure the shopping opportunity was totally wasted on me, sorry Fi!!!

International Rice Research Institute

Spent the day at IRRI. Its part of the CGIAR, the research arm of the World food programme which includes CIMIT in Mexico, the Asian Vegetable Research and Development Centre, an agroforestry centre and grazing centre, both in Kenya. There is a total 15 of such international R& D institutes around the world covering the staple food and agricultural systems.
Very impressive array of projects underway in many countries, a reminder of the role rice plays, socially, politically, and economically throughout much of the world.
Seeing a modern, well funded institution set in a provincial area in a developing country, you can not help but ponder the importance, and huge potential impact of research and foreign aid. As we left Australia I noticed the media were running a few stories regarding the aid budget......
IRRI now has a huge budget, made up of government and aid monies, and from philanthropic donors including the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation.
The rice gene bank is located on site, and contains 114000 varieties of rice from 145 countries. (There is a wild rice from Northern Australia, something I did not know.)
This collection is replicated in two other locations, including the Doomsday Vault in Norway.
Another gene marker and gene modification lesson was delivered, envy time a little bit more stays in and adds to a basic understanding! The presenters were truly passionate about their work, and proud of the part they were playing in helping to feed a growing world population.
Currently flying to Hong Kong, en route to China.
What an experience......

Some sights

Sight seeing day.
From IRRI at Los Banos to Lake Taal by bus over generally good, but busy roads. The broad range of wealth is evident as a new Toyota passes an aging, small motor bike carrying an entire family.
A 15 minute boat ride and we land on the island in the middle of the lake. About 1.5 km up a steepish path and we are approached by a man with a golf club and golf ball. For $1us you can hit a ball into the crater!!
Amazing views, then back down in torrential rain

Landed

Got to love free wifi....

Last day in Aus

Spent the day at NFF house. Another line up of interesting and engaging speakers, on trade, advocacy, the Council of Research and Development Corporations as well as some personality typing ( we pretty much all passed!) and briefings.
We also got a demo of the management program, Production Wise, put out by Grain Growers. Fairly impressive little tool, especially at the price, free for the record keeping and subscription for the yield prediction modules. Looking forward to some time to play with it....
Not for a while however, Manila tomorrow.